A late winter day waning into early spring has drawn many to enjoy the lake near my friend’s home. The lack of rain swells the numbers of visitors as flotillas of birds float along the placid waters. Skateboarders, cyclists, wanderers, runners with jogging buggies, and a large assortment of dogs flow by me as I watch a flicker assemble himself at the top of a leafless tree and unleash his sentinel call. The hoots, blats, honks and trills of birds curl through the air like madrona bark … the gorgeous tones of a hidden blackbird is especially lush. We are an unlikely crew, humans and animals, visitors and neighbors, joined for a few minutes by a common body of water.
Just passing through on the way to spring.
I keep stopping to enjoy marching mallards, first the drake then his girl following a few steps behind. They waddle back and forth across the path, taking flight when kids can’t resist racing toward them. A few feet away their larger, less nervous cousins, Canada geese, stroll along adding contrast to the grass they are intent on cropping (and fertilizing) ignoring humans and, amazingly, the many dogs. Maybe the geese have figured out what a leash means. A brown form pokes up and cruises across the water. I am not sure if it’s a nutria or a beaver and wish I had my small binoculars.
This lakeside stop is just ducky!
It is nearly dusk and the flotillas are stretching their wings and chattering more. In a moment, they lift as one, all wings and bird noise, off to a destination hidden within their calls. I meander home, taking pictures of early berries and blooms, feeling a little more whole than when I started.
The many become one – a beautiful moment.Stunning winter color along the path home.
Ruckle Park is my favorite place on Salt Spring Island to take in dramatic scenery and shoreline. But for a restorative walk through forest and meadow, I always enjoy Duck Creek Park. The trails are kept up nicely and allow for a short or longer easy hike. Benches donated in honor of loved ones are scattered along the trails for those who need a rest or a place to contemplate. Simon, my brother-in-law, says it’s a place that makes visitors feel as though all is right with the world.
A place in the forest to rest and reflect.
We pass other wanderers, most with dogs. A gentle, overweight boxer. A very happy Labrador. A border collie cross with a red bandana and a chipper jaunt. Salt Spring has the friendliest dogs ever. Most of the resident canines spend their time smiling broadly and saying howdy to everybody in dog language, which usually involves rubbing copious amounts of dog hair on nearby legs and sitting down on the feet attached to those legs while emitting large, contented doggy sighs.
A genial welcome on the trail from a sweet Labrador. See, I told you he was smiling!
On this day, a lady was walking the trails with three small dogs and the happy Lab pictured above. As our group approached, she called out, asking if we had any dogs. When we replied in the negative, she immediately put one of the small dogs in my hubby’s arms. Somewhat startled, he assumed Simon knew her and gamely held the little pooch for a bit. Meanwhile, the lady dogwalkers was on a verbal roll, telling us that people who owned large dogs needed to know how to handle them and most didn’t and that was because they were afraid of the dogs and they needed to get over that, “I mean right now!” The small dogs surged around our legs, tangling leashes and tussling with each other. The Lab contentedly deposited herself on the nearest foot, oblivious to her human’s aggravation about other large dogs. The lady wrapped up her self-described diatribe by declaring that people who did not know how to handle big dogs should “GET A CAT. That’s what I say! I’ve got plenty of ’em!” By now the Lab was a bit discouraged with the delay…
Are we there yet?
Finally, she and her pack moved on. We then learned that Simon did not in fact know her. (We always assume he knows everybody on-island – it’s a pretty small place.) I kept giggling and teasing hubby. We wandered on, plucking fragrant blackberries from the side of the trail, watching dragonflies shimmer in the sun and chatting about anything brought to mind by a lovely late summer day. With so much dark news of late, it is good to feel, for a few moments, that all is right with the world.
It’s hard to stop eating the blackberries – so sweet and fragrant.A place to be right with the world.In the forest, we found a gorgeous feather from a flicker – orange, black, grey and white. A small gift of beauty.
Signs have always fascinated me for some weird reason. A few caught my eye around the island.
Great color on the Rock Salt Café sign in Fulford Harbour!How courteous can you be to parking violators? Only on a Canadian island!An eminently polite no parking sign!Picturesque post office
Around Salt Spring there’s some pretty creative signage, such as this collection greeting vehicles off-loading from the Fulford ferry terminal.
Reminds me of that song, Signs, by the Canadian group, Five Man Electrical Band. Has a catchy sound to go with this catchy look.
Hiking through Duck Creek Park, we came upon a chair with a sign. Simon, my brother-in-law, assured me that it would not be stolen. So cool.
The sign says, “A chair for anyone who would like to rest awhile. Please leave here so others may do the same.”
There is a certain way of living on islands. People who dwell on them understand this. They choose a different kind of existence that involves unique modes of travel and the need to plan trips, stock supplies and check the weather. Things that people who live off-island don’t need to consider because they can just hop in their vehicle or turn on their computer and get what they need. On-island, epic stories abound about barely catching or barely missing ferries. Islanders never tire of hearing and telling those stories.
Walking around Ganges, on Salt Spring Island, creates a different mindset. People smile back when you smile at them. Islanders take the time to say hello to each other and chat a bit … “How are you? Good to see you. Is your dog doing better? Have your kids been to visit lately?” A parked car has a copy of Rumi’s love poems tucked in the corner of the dash. On the sidewalks, very few are looking at cell phones. At the crosswalk, vehicles are likely to stop as adults, kids, bikes and dogs flow south to the coffee shop or north to the grocery store. We wander around, then sit on a bench eating ice cream, three thrilled kids with their nana, great auntie and great granddad, watching the village pulse by. I dash across the lane to get a photo of the family bench and within seconds three generations are doing what they love best … making goofy faces for the camera.
At home my sister scans the Salt Spring Exchange – a local online mostly free listing of mostly everything. From homes for sale (paid ads) to lost pets (free ads), it reflects Gulf Island living. One ad made the sad announcement that a dead cat had been found but looked so well loved that perhaps the family would want to know what happened. Another ad offered a photo of a rather scuffed-up pair of shoes for $50, Only Worn Twice!! In the Rants and Roses section, a chicken owner thanked passersby for chasing her frolicking fowl off the road. That truly is free range.
We post our own photo of a wandering tuxedo kitty found raiding Pebbles the cat’s bowl of kibble. No calls as yet.
Tuxedoed marauder hits the kibble bowl.
Meanwhile, Pebbles the family cat was lounging on her bed, later to emerge on the deck apparently unconcerned about the interloper.
I’ll miss cats with names like Golden Stream and Blue Sky. Farm and garden stands with flowers, fresh eggs, veggies, honey, jam and more. Back home in Renton, the scent of lavender sachets purchased from the Ruckle Park farm stand wafts gentle memories.
Near the farm stand at Ruckle Park
I’ll miss sunlight among the great cedars and Douglas firs and the birdsong floating through forest branches.
A peaceful stroll in the forest can purge a lot of worry!
I’ll miss Gallery 8 in Ganges, featuring sculpture and paintings by amazingly talented artists including Simon Morris, creator of fine art bronze sculptures with marine themes, and painter Carol Evans who so ably captures the misty light and atmosphere of west coast living. Steffich Fine Art, almost next door, with fascinating cast stone and wood sculpture by Thomas McPhee and stunning kiln-formed glass by Anthony Jamieson Designs. Outside, the gallery has installed wind sculptures that island breezes often set in motion.
Not far from the galleries, the scenic harbor awaits.
I’ll miss the deer… everywhere… Deer in the front yard, getting a swig from the fountain. In the backyard, peeking across the deck. Ambling along the driveway Crashing through the forest
Most of all, I’ll miss hanging out with my family. On the deck, with cups of tea and good books in hand. On the waterfront enjoying the view. Smiling and laughing through a meal. Good and peaceful times, tucked away in my heart. Until next time! A waterfront stroll Looking across the Sidney Harbour, with an old salty dog in the foreground Dusk falls on St. Mary Lake, as seen from the family deck.
Note: Most links go to Facebook pages – they are usually more current than the websites.
Vineyards are not new on the island, but food carts are a more recent addition. We visited the T&A Café, a colorful cart in Ganges named for the two owners, local gals with a sense of humor and a unique burger interpretation. A generous beef and pork patty is topped with homemade beet relish and tucked into a tasty pretzel bun. We had no problem polishing it off, along with fries made the way I like them – skin on and not greasy. Locals also recommend the taco cart, next to the Sea Breeze Motel off Fulford-Ganges Road, but we did not have a chance to sample their wares. Next time!
One-of-a-kind food cart in Ganges
Before I get to wine tasting, a few more words on food. I’ve already raved about Auntie Pesto’s in Ganges, which will not disappoint. The Tree House Cafe, also in Ganges, is a good lunch spot, though I did not visit on this trip. It’s hard to get better fish and chips than those at the Seaside Restaurant in Vesuvius. We had a family dinner there and also really enjoyed the desserts along with stunning views. In Ganges, Harlans Chocolates has yummy chocolate and very good gelato, and for a great waffle cone, stop by Glad’s Ice Cream and Sweet Shop, across from Mouat’s Hardware. (Glad’s is a seasonal business.) Old Salty’s, a gift shop, sells Crow chocolate bars, which fans of chocolate will not want to miss, along with a good selection of Roger’s Chocolates from Victoria, a venerable establishment famous for its chocolate creams. You can’t miss Glad’s Ice Cream – look for the bike!
We visited two wineries and loved both. Salt Spring Vineyards and Winery is on the way to Fulford Harbour and has been pressing great wine for about 15 years, though I can remember the vines going in a few years earlier. As with so many vineyards, the grounds were lovely. I hope to add a photo to this post later from hubby’s tablet (I forgot my camera on this visit). We enjoyed the ability to sample at least eight wines without a tasting fee! We left with several bottles, including Evolution, a charming white with layers of flavor, plus an irresistible dessert wine made from heritage apple trees on the property and another made of pure blackberries, along with a bottle of merlot for my dad. The prices were good and the service friendly and informative.
Mistaken Identity Vineyards is just outside of Ganges and sustainably cultivates organic vines. It has been operating for about six years and has a tasting fee of $4 for four samples. One fee is waived for each bottle purchased and believe me, you will want to buy this wine! We were unexpectedly captivated by the pinot rosé, and by the blackberry wine that was tempered with grapes for a less-sweet but richly fruity finish. We found the prices very reasonable and the service helpful, and walked out with more bottles. This winery also sells wine vinegars and other goodies, plus colorful scarves made in Guatemala. Mistaken Identity tasting room. View from the deck of Mistaken Identity’s tasting room. Take your time and enjoy!
We wanted to also visit the Garry Oaks Winery, but their tasting hours are limited to weekends. They did not answer their phone for a request to visit outside posted times. Their wines are available in local liquor stores and I remember them being very good. Last time I was on island, they were not yet open for the season so here’s hoping I can catch them on my next visit!
The ferry from Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring to Swartz Bay outside of Victoria takes about 35 minutes. We arrive early at the Fulford ferry terminal and hop into the Rock Salt Café for a cup of superb java (Salt Spring Coffee Company on tap) and a snack of locally made pastries. The barista went to school with my nephew and cheerfully asks after the family, as many islanders are wont to do. Dad is outside sitting in the sun with an ice cream cone, in his element. We gather ourselves up and drive onto the open-deck ferry, and after the ride, head to the airport to pick up my husband. Then we are off to Sidney, a delightful little community built along the seaside facing south toward Mt. Baker. Like so many places in this part of the world, sunny days bring out the best of the scenery, and draw strollers to the waterfront walkways where cafes and restaurants abound. Sidney waterfront with Mt. Baker in the distant background. It’s fun to walk out onto the wharf, but the café is not recommended.
Click on any photo to enlarge and enjoy!
As we walk along the waterfront, we meet a local charmer. Charles the bulldog gave us a warm Canadian welcome and left some affectionate hairs on my pants.
With a half hour to kill before meeting my nephew and his wife for dinner, the stroll continues. Flowers create a colorful contrast for the blue background.
The marina is loaded with boats displaying names filled with whimsy, dreams and adventure. One small part of the marina in Sidney.
We enjoy a delectable dinner at the Beacon Landing Pub, just two days before my nephew, Tyler, and his wonderful wife Jeanine head off for a month of camping through B.C. They are taking a GoPro camera so we are hoping to follow along with their posts. After dinner, the ferry ride home gives us more spectacular scenery to enjoy. Million dollar views from the ferry to Salt Spring. Clouds bring a chill in the air and dramatic skies. Almost home, we are looking forward to a warm cup of tea as we wave at another ferry.
A tree faller leaves a voice mail for my brother-in-law to confirm the day that he will fall two maples next to the deck but emphasizes that he does not want to be paid until he knows they are satisfied with the job. After the trees are down, we enjoy a parade of deer who find the leaves irresistably delicious. A couple of local girls stop by for a bite of maple leaf. So Canadian of them. One of the boys was not far behind.
Browsing through the racks of a clothing boutique in Ganges, the lone salesperson asks if we mind if she pops next door to fetch a cup of tea. We do not, continuing to peruse the racks. A few minutes later she returns, apparently unconcerned about our honesty. I buy a shirt, thinking how this would never happen anywhere in Seattle. The Wednesday farmers market in Ganges offers local color.
I discover that the campsite road through Ruckle Provincial Park offers a better path to the waterfront. There are deer all along the path, but they decline to offer a photo-friendly shot. The views from Ruckle Provincial Park are not to be missed. Time your walk to Ruckle’s beaches just right to see the ferries sail by. There’s nothing quite like the sun trickling through the giant trees of B.C. parks. Finding a starfish takes me back 50 years to summers with my sister, exploring tidepools along the B.C. coast.
After a long day of adventures, Pebbles the cat, who was with us in spirit, has the right idea about how to spend the evening. Guess who gets the primo spot in the living room.
Ganges is the main harbor and town on Salt Spring Island. It is generally easy to find parking somewhere in the area, except for the months the Saturday Market is open, in which case I say to you, good luck! On those Saturdays, parking is as rare as hen’s teeth and the crowds amass in remarkable numbers. Given that the island is something of a mecca for artists, the market has a lot of great stuff, so the best strategy is to arrive early and cruise the booths as they are setting up.
On this Monday, we visit several galleries, including Gallery 8 where my brother-in-law’s bronze sculpture is featured along with several amazing painters, and Steffich Fine Art, which features stylized sculptures and carvings in the spirit of First Nations such as those by Thomas McPhee, one of my favorite artists.
I also wander into an endangered retail species: Black Sheep Books – a new and used bookstore. I am a bit of a dinosaur in that I truly love books – the kind one can touch and flip through and test drive in hand. A case of antique and collectible books calls to me as a magnet calls to its opposite. I stand there riveted before all those words, thinking about the level of dedication required to write a book in the 1800s and how readers should try and read old books, to celebrate authors’ voices still available 150 years later. Who held each of those leather-clad volumes with gold-stamped titles in antique letters? Who loved them and gave them as gifts? Who kept them on shelves for years and years, drawing some comfort from running their hand over the bindings, softened with age? I wonder about the experience of reading 50 or 100 years in the future when most books are likely to be electronic.
Black Sheep Books in Ganges – a great place to find books about the Gulf Islands, both historical and contemporary.
A shady spot tempts passersby to sit for a minute and flip through a book.
I wandered along the harbor front and shot a few photos of the day at hand, which I share now with you – postcards from Ganges. Salt Spring Air is one way to arrive on the island – by float plane. The venerable Mouat Hardware and associated businesses anchor Ganges. Living the good life, overlooking Ganges Harbour. The Canadian Coast Guard has a presence around the harbor. A Coast Guard ship at dock. An idyllic place on a sunny day. Flowers are a big part of the Ganges experience.
Literary wanderings 